14ers.com - Mountaineering Safety

Mountaineering in Colorado can be very dangerous. Many people have died on the 14ers. Weather, terrain and other people can put you in a situation where your knowledge and experience will be vital. If you are new to these peaks, I urge you to pick up a book on mountaineering safety. It could save your life. Just because a crowd of people can march to the summit of Quandary Peak on a summer Saturday, it doesn't mean that they are all safe. Altitude sickness, dehydration, and fast-building storms are the most common problems. Get in shape and start early for each trip. I can't tell you how many times I have been half way down a 14er and passed hikers that were determined to get to the summit - even with huge thunderclouds brewing above.

Backcountry skiing has it's own set of dangers and challenges, and I'm not talking about cross country skiing here. Colorado has the most annual avalanche deaths in the U.S. Even experienced climbers/skiers can get in trouble.

Here are some basic points on mountaineering preparation and safety:

Preparing for the Trip

Consider taking a mountaineering class. If you don't want to take a class, travel with experienced hikers. General mountaineering classes are offered throughout the country and at the Colorado Mountain Club - http://www.cmc.org.
Make sure you are in the proper physical conditioning to make the trip.
Travel with experienced people.
Acquire the appropriate maps.
Plan for an early start - especially in thunderstorm season. I usually plan for a start early enough to get me below tree line by noon (on the descent). For a day hike that requires 10 - 15 miles roundtrip, consider hitting the trail a couple of hours before sunrise.
Check with the local U.S. Forest Service for road closures and trailhead information.
Bring a compass and/or GPS and know how to use them.
Tell someone the following:
- When you are leaving
- Where you are staying/camping
- When and where you are hiking
- When you plan to return
Check the weather forecast and change the day of the trip if the weather is not going to cooperate.
Research the route (maps and other descriptions) thoroughly so you know a lot about the terrain and landmarks before you even get there. Studying topo maps can really help.
For winter travel, check with local resources on the current avalanche danger. Pack the necessary gear for avalanche safety.

Altitude Sickness

Buy a book on mountaineering that covers altitude sickness. It is a common problem on 14ers - especially for people that come from much lower elevations.
Know when to spot the symptoms (in you and your partners).
Turn back if necessary. The best remedy is to get to lower elevation ASAFP.

Bring the Proper Gear and Supplies

The following list includes most of the gear you will need, and some helpful gear links have been provided. It does not cover the required equipment for technical climbing. I have found B ackCountry.com, and REI to be two of the best places to shop for backcountry and mountaineering gear.

Main Gear:

Food and water (plenty of water)

Hat

Gloves

Synthetic shirts

Synthetic long underwear

Fleece or Wind-Block jacket

Waterproof shell/jacket

Nylon shorts

Hiking pants

Hiking boots / scrambling shoes

Hiking socks

Watch

Pack (that fits the hike/climb)

Headlamp

Sunglasses

Knife or multi-tool

Water bladder or bottles

Compass

Maps

Tape

Matches/lighter

30spf+ sunscreen

TP (in ziploc bag)

Cell phone

Emergency supplies, including a first aid kit

Climbing helmet

Optional: Trekking poles

Optional: GPS

Optional: Water filter

Optional: Satellite Phone (expensive)

Colder Weather and Snow Climbing:

Waterproof shell

Waterproof pants

Mountaineering boots

Mountain axe

Snowshoes

Crampons

Gaiters (ankle or knee-high)

Winter hat

Balaclava or fleece face mask

Avalanche beacons

Avalanche probe

Shovel

Gear for Overnight Summer Trips:

Tent

Sleeping bag

Sleeping pad

AT / Tele Backcountry (BC) Skiing Gear:

AT skis / bindings

AT boots

Tele skis / bindings

Tele boots

Climbing skins

Know Your Limitations

Get in shape in the off-season. A 14er trip is much more enjoyable if you are in better shape. Even the easiest 14er routes require proper conditioning.
Not everyone is fit enough for every hike. Understand when your body is telling you to turn back.
Make sure you have the proper skills to tackle the route. Many 14er routes can turn from easy hiking to technical climbing in a hurry.
Make sure all of the people in your group have the proper skills for the route.
Turn back if necessary.
Skiing on a 14er is much different than visiting the ski area. It takes a certain set of skills to climb and ski in the backcountry. Terrain can be steep, dangerous, and difficult to ski. On many routes, a fall could be fatal.

Safe Trekking

Start early.
If you are going to travel in winter, learn about avalanche safety. In winter, avalanche danger is always present. Click Here for the Colorado Avalanche Info Center
Pay attention at all times. The altitude may impair your judgment, so it is very important to stay alert.
Keep a safe distance from other hikers.
Travel quietly.
If you are climbing a steep slope or gully, be careful not to send debris sailing down on other climbers.
Watch for animals - cougars, bears, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, marmots, deer, elk, and more...
Don't wander off into the wilderness. If you get hurt, you may never be found.
Frozen lakes are not always safe.
Bring a cell phone or satellite phone.
Drink plenty of water.

Watch the Weather

Pick up a book on weather so you know how to "read" the sky and predict weather as best as possible.
Check the weather forecast the night before your trip.
Dark, brewing clouds are bad.
During summer, lightning is your main problem on a 14er. Start early and turn back if a thunderstorm is brewing.
A barometer is very helpful. Many new GPS units or hand-held weather stations will give you barometric information. Rapidly dropping barometric pressure is usually a sign of adverse weather to come.

Safety is always more important than peak bagging.