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Mountaineering in Colorado can be very dangerous.  Many people have died on Colorado mountains.  Weather, terrain and other people can put you in a situation where your knowledge and experience will be vital.  If you are new to these peaks, I urge you to pick up a book on mountaineering safety.  It could save your life.  

Just because a crowd of people can march to the summit of Quandary Peak on a summer Saturday, it doesn't mean that they are all safe.  Altitude sickness, dehydration, and fast-building storms are the most common problems.  Get in shape and start early for each trip.  I can't tell you how many times I have been half way down a peak and passed hikers that were determined to get to the summit - even with huge thunderclouds brewing above.

Backcountry skiing has it's own set of dangers and challenges.  And I'm not talking about cross country skiing here.  Colorado has the most annual avalanche deaths in the U.S.  Even experienced climbers/skiers can get in trouble.

This is not a complete checklist but it does contain some basic points on mountaineering preparation and safety:

• Preparing for the Trip

  • Consider taking a mountaineering class.  If you don't want to take a class, travel with experienced hikers.  General mountaineering classes are offered throughout the country and at the Colorado Mountain Club - http://www.cmc.org. 
  • Make sure you are in the proper physical conditioning to make the trip.
  • Travel with experienced people.
  • Acquire the appropriate maps.
  • Plan for an early start - especially in thunderstorm season.  I usually plan for a start early enough to get me below tree line by noon (on the descent).  For a day hike that requires 10 - 15 miles roundtrip, consider hitting the trail a couple of hours before sunrise.
  • Check with the local U.S. Forest Service for road closures and trailhead information.
  • Bring a compass and/or GPS and know how to use them.
  • Tell someone the following:
    • When you are leaving
    • Where you are staying/camping
    • When and where you are hiking
    • When you plan to return
  • Check the weather forecast and change the day of the trip if the weather is not going to cooperate.
  • Research the route (maps and other descriptions) thoroughly so you know a lot about the terrain and landmarks before you even get there.  Studying topo maps can really help.
  • For winter travel, check with local resources on the current avalanche danger.  Pack the necessary gear for avalanche safety.
    

• Altitude Sickness

  • Buy a book on mountaineering that covers altitude sickness.  It is a common problem in Colorado - especially for people that come from much lower elevations.
  • Know when to spot the symptoms (in you and your partners).
  • Turn back if necessary.  The best remedy is to get to lower elevation ASAFP.
    
    

• Bring the Proper Gear and Supplies
  I have found backcountry.com to be the best place to shop for backcountry and mountaineering gear.

  The following list includes most of the gear you will need.  It does not cover the required equipment for technical climbing.  
  • Clothing:  Bring enough layers of clothing in case the weather turns nasty.  The higher you climb, the colder the weather.  Avoid cotton materials - synthetics are much better at wicking moisture and keeping you dry.  Bring gloves and hat even if you may not need them.  Gore-Tex is expensive but it is great to have in cold, wet weather.  Never wear jeans!  Here is a list of potential clothing:
    • Hat
    • Gloves
    • Synthetic underwear
    • Fleece or Wind-Block jacket
    • Waterproof shell/jacket
    • Nylon shorts
    • Rain pants
    • Hiking Boots - usually with a Gore-Tex lining
    • Hiking socks
    • Gaiters (ankle or knee-high)
  • Pack:  Pick the right pack for the trip.  Day-trip packs are smaller than packs used for longer backpacking trips.  Most packs are not waterproof, so buy a pack cover that fits your pack.  If you plan on using a water reservoir/hose system, pick a pack with an internal sleeve for the reservoir.
  • If you are traveling during winter or spring, you may need these:
    • Warm hat
    • Mountain axe
    • Snow shoes
    • Boots that fit the task
    • Crampons
    • Waterproof shell and pants
    • Balaclava or fleece face mask
    • Avalanche beacons
    • Avalanche probe
    • Shovel
    • If you are skiing on a 13er or 14er, you will need additional gear.  Alpine Touring equipment allows for snow travel and downhill skiing.  On short routes, you may be able to use normal downhill ski equipment.
  • Helmet.  You should bring a helmet for most Class 3 (and harder) climbs.
  • Headlamp.
  • Sunglasses.
  • 30spf+ sunscreen.
  • Knife or multi-tool.
  • Matches.
  • Tape.
  • Trekking poles are helpful on many hikes.
  • Compass and the necessary maps.
  • GPS (optional).  A GPS can be very helpful if you face dense fog or a snow storm.  Waypoints can be set as you ascend the peak.  If the weather turns, you can navigate by backtracking on your GPS route.
  • Emergency supplies, including a first aid kit.
  • Bring plenty of food and water.  You may need to consume over a gallon of water on some day hikes.  Even short hikes require a couple of liters.
  
  

• Know Your Limitations

  • Get in shape in the off-season.  A high peak is much more enjoyable if you are in better shape.  Even the easiest 13er and 14er routes require proper conditioning.
  • Not everyone is fit enough for every hike.  Understand when your body is telling you to turn back.
  • Make sure you have the proper skills to tackle the route.  Many routes can turn from easy hiking to technical climbing in a hurry.
  • Make sure all of the people in your group have the proper skills for the route.
  • Turn back if necessary.
  • Skiing on a peak is much different than visiting the ski area.  It takes a certain set of skills to climb and ski in the backcountry.  Terrain can be steep, dangerous, and difficult to ski.  On many routes, a fall could be fatal.

  
  

• Safe Trekking

  • Start early.
  • If you are going to travel in winter, learn about avalanche safety.  In winter, avalanche danger is always present.
  • Pay attention at all times.  The altitude may impair your judgment, so it is very important to stay alert.
  • Keep a safe distance from other hikers.
  • Travel quietly.
  • If you are climbing a steep slope or gully, be careful not to send debris sailing down on other climbers.
  • Watch for animals - cougars, bears, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, marmots, deer, elk, and more...
  • Don't wander off into the wilderness.  If you get hurt, you may never be found.
  • Frozen lakes are not always safe.
  • Bring a cell phone or satellite phone.
  • Drink plenty of water.
    
    

• Watch the Weather

  • Pick up a book on weather so you know how to "read" the sky and predict weather as best as possible.
  • Check the weather forecast the night before your trip.
  • Dark, brewing clouds are bad.
  • During summer, lightning is your main problem on a high peak.  Start early and turn back if a thunderstorm is brewing.
  • A barometer is very helpful.  Many new GPS units or hand-held weather stations will give you barometric information.  Rapidly dropping barometric pressure is usually a sign of adverse weather to come.
   

Exercising good judgment will always pay off.  I remember the first time that lightning forced me off a high peak - I was only 400' from the summit.  I made it to the summit the next day. 

Safety is always more important than peak bagging.
 

©2008 Bill Middlebrook.  All Rights Reserved.